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| Fung Fung he Waterfall |
You see Fungfunge before you arrive — a white rope of water hanging down a green wall, visible from hills on the far side of the valley. By the time you stand below it, conversation has become pointless. Three hundred meters of falling water does the talking.
Fungfunge Waterfall (Limbu name: Fangfangden) is an approximately 300-meter waterfall in Sawa, Mikwakhola Rural Municipality ward 4, Taplejung district, eastern Nepal. It is the second-tallest known waterfall in Koshi Province after Hyatung in Terathum, flows year-round, and is a recognized landmark of the Mundhum, the oral scripture of the Yakthung Limbu people.
Reaching it takes a flight from Kathmandu to Bhadrapur (or Suketar), a day's drive to Phungling, then roughly four hours by road to Sawa and a short steep walk. The best months to visit are October and November; the most dramatic flow is during the June–August monsoon. Limbu-run homestays in Sawa village provide the nearest accommodation.
Fungfunge Waterfall drops roughly 300 meters down a forested cliff in Sawa, Mikwakhola Rural Municipality of Taplejung — making it, by the GIS measurement of environmental researcher Dipak Khadka, the second-tallest known waterfall in Koshi Province. Only Hyatung in Terathum, about 65 meters taller, outranks it. But ask anyone who has stood at the base of both: height is not the whole story. Fungfunge carries the bigger volume, falls in all seasons, and was significant to the people of these hills long before any tourism board took notice.
I should know the second part personally. For Limbu families like mine, this waterfall has a name older than its map entry: Fangfangden — a landmark spoken of in the Mundhum, the oral scripture of the Yakthung Limbu people. The government listed it among the 100 destinations of Visit Nepal Year 2022. The Mundhum listed it rather earlier.
Fungfunge from across the valley — visible long before you reach it
What Does Fangfangden Mean? The Name the Mundhum Gave It
Most travel write-ups will tell you Fungfunge is simply a local word for a waterfall, and leave it there. The fuller truth is more interesting. Mundhum researcher Arjun Mabuhang, who has written on the site's significance for over two decades, identifies it as one of the important Mundhum landmarks scattered across Taplejung, Terathum and Sankhuwasabha — physical places that the Yakthung Limbu oral tradition names, narrates and ties into its geography of the sacred. The indigenous name is Fangfangden, and for anyone tracing the Mundhum's landscape on foot, this waterfall is a destination in its own right, separate from any photograph it produces.
That double identity is what makes the visit worth the road. You are not just looking at falling water. You are standing at an address in a scripture that was never written down.
What It's Actually Like at the Base
The volume is the thing no photo conveys. According to GIS readings by environmental researcher Dipak Khadka, the fall measures about 300 meters — and unlike many tall Himalayan falls, it carries serious water in every season. Its impact zone generates a standing cloud of mist: you feel the waterfall on your skin a few hundred meters before you properly see it. The surrounding slopes are dense subtropical and temperate forest, loud with birdlife in the morning, and the basin stays cool even in May. In monsoon the fall swells to something genuinely intimidating; the ground vibrates near the base, and you understand immediately why the old name imitates the sound.
The permanent mist cloud at the impact zone — the fall announces itself by feel
You are not just looking at falling water. You are standing at an address in a scripture that was never written down.
How Do You Get to Fungfunge Waterfall?
Fly east. Kathmandu to Bhadrapur is the reliable option; Suketar (Taplejung's own airstrip) cuts the road time dramatically when flights operate, which is not every day and not in every season.
Road to Phungling. From Bhadrapur it is a long, winding day's drive up through Ilam's tea country to Phungling, the Taplejung district headquarters. Break the trip in Ilam if you can — your back will thank you.
Phungling to Mikwakhola. A rough but passable road runs toward Sawa in Mikwakhola Rural Municipality — roughly four hours' drive from the district headquarters, conditions permitting. Jeeps can be hired in Phungling; shared vehicles run when demand exists.
The final walk. From the road head, a short, steep trail drops toward the viewing area and base. After rain it is slick — this is the stretch where decent boots stop being optional.
Honest note on the road: track conditions in Mikwakhola change with every monsoon, and "four hours" assumes a dry season and a driver who knows the route. Confirm current conditions in Phungling before committing, and budget a spare day. Locals — including drivers and homestay hosts in Sawa — are the only reliable, current source.
When Is the Best Time to Visit Fungfunge Waterfall?
For maximum power: monsoon (June–August). The fall is at its most ferocious and the hills at their greenest. The price is real: leeches, slick trails, road washouts and clouds that can hide the upper fall for days. Go prepared or go later.
For the balanced trip: October–November. Post-monsoon, the volume is still impressive, skies clear toward Kanchenjunga, the road is at its most dependable, and the trail is safe. This is when I would send a first-time visitor. Spring (March–April) adds rhododendron bloom on the surrounding ridges and pairs naturally with the season's festivals — see our eastern Nepal festival calendar if you want to time it to one.
Sawa: Stay for the Village, Not Just the Fall
The settlement nearest the waterfall is Sawa, a Limbu village whose hospitality has quietly become half the destination's reputation — visitors routinely report planning a few hours and staying a night. Homestays here are simple and genuine: tongba by the fire, questions about your family, and hosts who can walk you to viewpoints no sign marks. Staying locally also puts your money exactly where it protects this place. If you want the trip to mean something beyond a photograph, sleep in Sawa.
What to Pack
Year-round: broken-in boots with real grip, a waterproof shell, warm layer for evenings, first-aid basics, water and snacks for the trail — small shops exist, but don't build a plan on them.
Monsoon additions: leech socks (genuinely), full rain cover for your pack, and a dry bag for anything electronic. The mist cloud alone will soak an unprotected camera at the base.
If camping: the basin area has beautiful pitches, but ask in Sawa first — both for permission where relevant and for advice on safe distance from the impact zone in high flow.
Frequently Asked Questions
How tall is Fungfunge Waterfall?
Approximately 300 meters, according to GIS readings taken by environmental researcher Dipak Khadka — making it the second-tallest known waterfall in Koshi Province, after Hyatung in Terathum, which is about 65 meters taller.
Where exactly is Fungfunge Waterfall?
In Sawa, ward 4 of Mikwakhola Rural Municipality, Taplejung district, eastern Nepal — roughly a four-hour drive from Phungling, the district headquarters, followed by a short steep walk from the road head.
What does Fangfangden mean?
Fangfangden is the indigenous Yakthung Limbu name for the waterfall, and the site is recognized as a landmark within the Mundhum, the Limbu oral scripture. The modern name Fungfunge derives from it.
What is the best time to visit Fungfunge Waterfall?
October–November offers the best balance: strong post-monsoon flow, dependable roads, safe trails and clear skies. The monsoon months of June–August deliver the most dramatic volume but bring leeches, slick paths and possible road washouts.
Is there accommodation near the waterfall?
Yes — Limbu-run homestays in Sawa village, the settlement nearest the fall. They are simple, warm and the single best way to experience the area; basic lodges are also available in Phungling for the night before.
About this guide: Written from within the Limbu community of Taplejung and Terathum. Height and ranking from GIS measurements by environmental researcher Dipak Khadka as reported in Nepali press; Mundhum significance per researcher Arjun Mabuhang; Visit Nepal Year 2022 listing per the official destination list. Road times are dry-season estimates and should be confirmed locally. Last updated June 2026.
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